![]() ![]() Spark gap is 0.028 " not as out of the box 0.045": dead wrong. I even tape my spark strobe light ON switch with duct tape (duct tape magic again) and now Lamp is flashing, try on all 4 spark wires not just 1.Īnd run the engine, see if one wire drops out spark or all do. Id be testing spark much better, to make sure it is not weak or going dead randomly or only cold or some other way. (this can hide real errors like that, and, like error code 41, or 42 error (DTC blink)/. The dome fuse blown means the ECU can not hold DTC errors. and you said fails.(as a test)ĭome fuse blow is usually the dome switch up high bad, shorting. if no air for starting nor air for idling cold.ĭP means dash pot rear left end of TB (throttle body)īut any person with a fast right foot can emulate IAC, to add air by foot and not need any iAC at all. IAC dead, not letting air in to the engine, only via DP but DP only lasts for 15seconds or less, so IAC in the base of TB is bad. (acts backwards the vacuum gauge)ĮGR stuck wide open, closed it and defeat it next with pulled vacuum line. by law and no fires.ĮCU does not make spark only is monitored by ECU to cut fuel and not catch fire,ĬAT melted and fails vacuum tests. a bad distrib and or bad spark coil, that cuts out. Spark fails, that VR thing and ignitor next to it love to fail. Wow 2 years for mech to not learn spark fails., I can not believe him, SORRY FOR YOUR GRIEF !!!!!! TEST FUEL FAILS, SO SPARK IS BAD, OR NO AIR TO INDUCTION, USE 5% THROTTLE TO SAVE A STALL, CALLED HOT RIGHT FOOTING IT? i BET FOOT CAN NOT SAVE ANYTHING. some love love to fail hot too.īad distrib. spark looks odd and orange.Īnd the ECU does not make spark on this engine ever !, only the distrib does that (+ coil), all by itself. If you used a timing light, to say spark #1 wire, and you see spark die, that way, then spark is bad, and you did say. (02-25-2021, 06:33 AM)Shaarc5 Wrote: This is a 89 suzuki sidekick 1.6 8v tbi.Īny ideas or things I can check are much appreciatedseems engine is OkĪnd fuel is ok, due to failing, with test fuel. What could cause it not run?Īny ideas or things I can check are much appreciated Ive got fuel, spark, compression, timing good. This started happening now that I’ve got it back from shop. One thing I noticed is my dome/tail fuse keeps blowing. Sounds really rough and I have to spray alot. Unhooking the injector and adding starting fluid will keep it running barely. Giving full throttle will sometimes barely keep it running about 700rpm but wont go above that. So now that I got it back she will crank and startup but immediately dies. Here is my original post and all the things I’ve checked. I went back through my list of everything after getting the suzuki back home and all checks good. I recently had it towed home and starting to go through things again but feel im running out of things to check. I decided to take it to a “shop” to be fixed and it was there for 2 years with them not figuring anything out. So I sent my computer off to be rebuilt/capacitors replaced. ![]() It would start now but was running very bad, wasn’t drivable. Ending up figuring out my ignition timing was 180 off. Hello, so I posted on here for help with my sidekick a few years ago when I couldn’t get it to start after a motor rebuild.
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